Cost to charge an electric car at home per month
Home charging cost comes down to three numbers plus one assumption: how much energy your battery holds, what your utility charges per kilowatt-hour, how often you plug in, and how much energy is lost while charging. The headline figure below is the electricity you buy from the wall — losses included — with the battery-side cost shown separately, plus cost per mile and a public-charging comparison.
Typical EV: ~75 kWh
Your home rate, from your utility bill
Full-battery equivalents
Assumptions: charging losses, mileage and public-charging comparison
The charging-loss percentage is an adjustable assumption, not a universal value — it feeds the headline utility cost. Mileage and the public rate only refine the interpretation below.
Default 10%. Level 2 home charging is commonly 5–15%; set your own.
- Energy delivered to the battery, per charge
- 75 kWh
- Electricity price
- $0.15 / kWh
- Charges per month
- 8
- Energy delivered to the battery, per month
- 75 × 8 = 600 kWh
- Cost before charging losses
- 600 kWh × $0.15 = $90.00
- Charging-loss assumption (adjustable)
- 10%
- Energy drawn from the wall, per month
- 600 kWh + 10% = 660 kWh
- Estimated utility cost including charging losses
- $90.00 + $9.00 = $99.00
What your result means
Charging a 75 kWh battery 8 times a month at $0.15 per kWh puts 600 kWh into the battery, which costs $90.00 before charging losses. Adding your 10% loss assumption, you actually draw about 660 kWh from the wall, so the estimated utility cost is $99.00 per month — roughly $1,188.00 a year.
75 kWh x $0.15/kWh = $11.25 into the battery, plus 10% charging losses. A partial top-up costs proportionally less.
The gap between $90.00 of energy stored and $99.00 of electricity bought, at your 10% assumption.
$99.00 ÷ 1,100 miles, on the same loss-adjusted basis as the headline figure. Before losses it would be $0.082.
At 1,100 miles a month you are buying about 0.60 kWh per mile from the wall, of which about 0.55 kWh per mile reaches the battery. That figure is worth sanity-checking against your car's trip computer, which normally reports the battery-side number: if it is far higher, you are probably charging more often than you entered, or your real sessions are larger than a single full battery.
For a first-time EV owner, the useful translation is fuel: covering the same 1,100 miles in an illustrative 30 mpg gasoline car at $3.10 a gallon would cost about $113.67 a month, versus $99.00 of home charging — $14.67 less for electricity. Substitute your own gas price and mpg if you are comparing against a specific car; the point is the order of magnitude, not the exact figure.
Buying the same 660 kWh at a public rate of $0.35/kWh would cost $231.00 a month — an extra $132.00 versus charging at home. Both sides of that comparison use the same loss-adjusted energy. Public pricing varies by network, location and membership, and some stations bill per minute or add idle fees, so treat this as a comparison of energy price alone.
There is no universally "good" number here. A driver on a $0.10/kWh rate covering 600 miles a month and a driver on a $0.32/kWh rate covering 1,500 miles are both charging sensibly and will see very different totals. The figures that are worth tracking over time are your cost per mile and the share of energy you buy at public prices.
How to improve your result
- Move charging to an off-peak or EV tariff$66.00/mo if your rate drops $0.05
Only worth it on a time-of-use or dedicated EV tariff. The figure shown applies an illustrative $0.05/kWh reduction to the 660 kWh you buy each month — replace the rate field with your utility's actual off-peak price, and check the peak price and any fixed monthly charge before switching, because peak rates on those plans are usually higher than the flat rate.
- Do less of your routine charging at public fast chargersUp to $132.00/mo versus all-public charging
At $0.35/kWh, the same 660 kWh would cost $231.00 instead of $99.00. Every session you move from a station back to the driveway claws back part of that gap, which is why this is usually the single largest lever on the bill.
- Cut the energy each mile needs$9.90/mo for a 10% efficiency gain
Steadier speeds, correct tire pressure, less cargo weight and preconditioning while still plugged in all lower kWh per mile. Efficiency scales the whole bill: a 10% improvement takes $99.00 down to about $89.10. Model it by reducing the charges-per-month field, since you plug in less often for the same miles.
- Set the charging-loss figure to match your own bill$9.00/mo at 10% today
The 10% default is an assumption, not a measured value. At 10% you are paying $9.00 a month for energy that never reaches the battery; at 5% it would be $4.50 and at 15% $13.50. Compare a month of sessions logged by the car against the kWh your utility billed, then enter your real loss rate.
Worked examples
Example A — low-mileage commuter on an off-peak rate
- Battery
- 40 kWh (Nissan Leaf)
- Home rate (off-peak)
- $0.11/kWh
- Charges per month
- 6
- Miles per month
- 550
- Charging losses (assumption)
- 12%
40 x 6 = 240 kWh into the battery → 240 x 0.11 = $26.40 before losses → +12% = 268.8 kWh from the wall → 268.8 x 0.11 = $29.57 → 29.57 ÷ 550 = $0.054 per mile
A small battery, a cheap overnight rate and modest mileage put home charging in the same range as a couple of coffees a week. The same 550 miles in a 30 mpg gas car at $3.10/gal would be about $57.
Example B — heavy public fast charging (illustrative)
- Battery
- 75 kWh
- Home rate (2 charges)
- $0.15/kWh
- Public rate (6 charges)
- $0.40/kWh
- Charges per month
- 8
- Miles per month
- 1,000
- Charging losses (assumption)
- 10%
Home: 75 x 2 x 1.10 = 165 kWh x 0.15 = $24.75 → Public: 75 x 6 x 1.10 = 495 kWh x 0.40 = $198.00 → total $222.75/mo → 222.75 ÷ 1,000 = $0.223 per mile
Same car, same miles, 2.25x the cost. To model a split like this here, run the calculator twice — once with the home rate and home sessions, once with the public rate and public sessions — and add the two monthly totals. (Public DC fast charging is usually metered at the dispenser, so real-world losses there are smaller than at home.)
How this calculator works, assumptions, and sources
Frequently asked questions
Related calculators
- Cost to charge an EV at a stationPrice a public or DC fast-charging session at the station's own rate.
- Tesla charging cost calculatorModel 3, Y, S and X pack sizes with home or Supercharger pricing.
- EV charging time calculatorHow long a session takes at Level 1, Level 2 or DC fast charging.
- Is an electric car cheaper than gas?Compare a full year of charging against a year of gasoline.
Related reading
Last reviewed July 9, 2026. Spotted an error? Report it via our corrections policy.